FLYFISHING EVENTS & NEWS

May 3-4: Natchitoches Fly Expo - Natchitoches, LA

May 4:» Loop Lab 101 - Lake Texoma, TX

May 5:» Loop Lab 201 - Lake Texoma, TX

May 11: 4th Annual World Championship Bass On The Fly Fishing Tournament - Lake Fork, TX

June 17 Meeting: Open

July 15 Meeting: Open

REVIEW - A Wisp in the Wind

Book by Jerry Kustich $24.95

The author takes the reader on a journey that involves fly fishing, bamboo rod building, bull trout, and rivers. The journey is not about fly fishing, or rods, or trout. Instead it is about how a love of nature through fly fishing can bring joy and peace to each of us. These are stories you will enjoy reading and want to finish before you put the book down. You will not find how to make bamboo rods, design rod tapers, or fish for bull trout or any other trout for that matter. There are no secret rivers, or silver bullet fly patterns. What you will find is a wonderful book of stories about how rivers can run through your life if you let them.

How fishing can connect family and friends through a lifetime of living. And that keeping these aqueous treasures and their inhabitants, in the end, is critical to our own salvation. The writing is excellent as is the editing. The illustrations by Al Hassall are lovely and make the book even better. For those who realize that fly fishing is not about the fish you will want to laugh, cry, smile, and chuckle along with Jerry. The rest of you really do need to read this book.

What Should I Consider in Buying My First Fly Rod?

Article Courtesy of Federation of Fly Fishers by Bay David O’Brien

This is a question that would start a general debate in most fly fishing circles. There are many opinions and it would be difficult to include all of the detailed factors to consider here. But… you should ask yourself several questions.

(1) What am I going to use the rod for? If the answer is trout and bluegill, then a different rod is recommended than if you are after tarpon and northern pike.

(2) How much money do I want to put into this purchase. A useable fly rod will seldom cost less than $140, maybe a little less if you look around. A good to excellent rod can exceed $400 very easily. This is perhaps the most important part of your fly fishing gear. A poor rod will make it harder to cast and generally reduce your pleasure overall.

If you can answer these first two questions you are on the way to making an initial decision. But there are other factors.

A recent article in Fly Tackle Dealer offers some additional insights into fly rod selection. Experts from Scott, Thomas & Thomas, Sage, Lamiglass, Diamond-Back, Winston, Loomis, Reddington, Orvis, were all interviewed, including Lefty Kreh. While there were a lot of general statements one of the designers identified some key factors: He pointed out that you want a rod that will allow you to do four things well: (1) present the fly, (2) control the fly (i.e., retrieve, mend), (3) hook the fish and (4) play/land the fish. If you are buying a rod, these criteria make good sense.

However, with all the different fishing situations that a rod may be used for, getting just the right balance among these four rod criteria could get pretty difficult. If you are casting big bass bugs and need to set the hook and drag old bucket-mouth out of the weeds, a rod to meet all four of these criteria is easy. A 7-8 wt with lots of backbone is your choice. But other factors come into play. If a rod is too heavy, it will be a burden to cast. As one of the manufacturers said, the best rod is the lightest rod possible. So that bass rod must have the backbone to fish bass, but it can't weigh a ton either.

In other situations, a great rod for presenting a fly may not be very good for hooking or landing a fish. Some fishing situations are very demanding. A rod that is delicate enough to present a #22 blue winged olive to a 20 inch Big Horn River rainbow may not have the necessary rod backbone to cast into that Montana wind, move line in that Bighorn current and play that hyperactive rainbow to the net.

So when we are thinking about a new rod, it is wise to remember that casting a long or precise line is not the only factor. We also have to think about controlling that fly, setting the hook and landing the fish as well. The best rods will do all of these well - or should. Good luck. Remember, most dealers will let you try a rod, at least on the grass. Take advantage of that opportunity!

Visit your Local Fly Shop for fly rods designed to fit any need and any budget!

River Tricks

By Bill Slough – Taken from the Alamo Fly Fishers Newsletter

With the Bud Priddy One Fly Contest almost upon us, here are a couple of tricks to add to your bag. First of all, the Nueces River has some large bass in it, but you often don’t see them until they are already moving away from you. Chasing after them usually doesn’t work, but river bass have a habit of returning to the same place. Even when not spooked, they tend to have a circuit they patrol. So if the bass is big enough to be worth spending some time on, an effective technique is to find a shaded place where you can wait for the bass to return. Just make sure you’re in a position where you can get off a cast. If you see the bass coming a ways off, make the cast as early as possible, to avoid spooking it again.

Also, years ago, one of the guides spoke to the club. I’ve forgotten his name, but he made the comment that if he floated through a run that he knew held fish, but nothing was biting, he would slap his paddle on the water to wake the fish up, and then float through again. A few of us in the back of the room looked at each other, wondering if he was serious. Since then I’ve had my own experience that seemed to prove him right. I was fishing a pool on the Nueces that I knew held some fish, but there was nothing in sight, not even a perch. There was a brush pile against the far shore, and I worked the edge of it with no luck. Then I threw a bad cast and snagged my fly way up in the brush. Not wanting to lose it, I rammed my kayak into the pile, forcing my way into where I could retrieve the fly. When I did that, a whole bunch of bass and perch moved out from under the brush, into the main river, and within a few minutes they were catch-able, including one of the bigger bass. Ever since then, when I am finished fishing around a brush pile or log jam, I always go over and shake it. It has saved the day more than once, a couple of times spooking out big bass that I had shots at when they returned. Give it a try, but you might want to do it when nobody’s looking. People already think us fly fishers are crazy.

Pontoon Boat Safety Tips

By John Peterson – Taken from the Granite Bay Flycasters Newsletter

Drifting in a pontoon boat can be an enjoyable experience; follow these common sense rules & these simple reminders will go a long way in keeping you out of trouble on the river, which can be a lot different from floating on still water lakes.

1. Learn to read the water. The real secret to successful drifting is to let the natural flow of the river do the work. Use it to your advantage!
2. Safety is always a concern. A personal life vest is mandatory on most waters. Caution: some states/rivers do not allow inflatable life vests. Vests should always be worn in rough/unknown water or windy conditions. It is a good idea to tie down your oars as they can easily be pushed out of the oar-locks if struck by an object. A spare oar is not a bad idea. I always tie a loose 10 foot line between the bow-stern pontoon rings which can be used to tie down when exiting/tethering the boat or otherwise can be grabbed easily if needed in an emergency. I usually carry a hand pump as air pressures change during the day. A patch kit is optional, but I always carry a Leatherman-type tool in my side pouch.
3. Anchors are another issue. They should always be used when the boat is beached. Scope out at least 8 feet of rope regardless of water depth. I have chased several boats down river when anchored too tightly. Anchors can be used midstream, in mild flowing water. Always deploy the anchor when the boat is facing straight down stream; if the boat is angled, a pontoon can dig in or otherwise tip you over. Take care when anchoring in very fast water. My motto: “If not sure, don’t anchor”. Caution: Anchors do get caught in rocks & may not be retrievable; cutting the rope & abandoning the anchor may be the only option.
4. What to do about rods? Tie them down or tether if in unknown or questionable water. I personally do not care for vertical rod holders as I have seen many rods lost when pulled out by overhead branches. My preference is to lay/string my rod lengthwise along the pontoon. A plastic case, rope loops or shock type cord all work well. Remember to pay attention to what is above & below you when floating down a river. Banging into obstacles in the river or on the bank can expose rod tips to breakage.
5. While drifting down river it is common to get into shallow water, to graze the bottom, hit a rock or bank. The pontoons normally are rugged enough to withstand most impacts. Always face down river & let the natural current do the work. The key is to keep away from sharp objects! Watch out for sticks, sharp rocks & overhead sweepers (trees or branches hanging over the water). Keep your feet on the pegs, out of the water when drifting or they may get caught & pull you out of the boat. I do not use fins on moving water for similar reasons.
6. Reading the water is important. As the river flows you will encounter fast, slow, shallow & deep water. Water will form a natural “V” indicating the channel, follow through the “V” where practical. An inverted “V” indicates a submerged object, pass to one side or the other. When there is a bend in the river the deeper channel is usually towards the outside bank.
7. When faced with an obstruction or anything else you want to avoid ? point the boat towards the object & row away from it. Short, shallow, strong strokes work well for adjusting boat direction. Many times the object creates a “bow wave” which may help by pushing you away from the obstruction. In very swift water flow however, the current can carry you directly into the object. There is usually a depression after passing an object midstream & you may be drawn back towards the obstacle (back eddy).
8. It is common to encounter small waterfalls (drops) along the river & many times we become overly concerned when faced with the dilemma “find a way around or go over”. If there is no other easy option, face them, take on straight forward & normally the boat will porpoise straight through.
9. Hydraulics are similar to depressions except they are created by object(s) under water & not always visible. Hydraulics can be scary, they are rough, can bounce you around, spin, or otherwise hold you in place for what seems like an incredible length of time. Rowing either forward or backward will help stabilize/control the boat & eventually will carry you out/through the rough water.
10. Holding the oars down into the water can assist in aiding the current to carry you down stream & stabilize the boat. A hard upstream wind can halt your progress & even push you backwards. Just holding the oars submerged in the water can be more effective than rowing, assists in offsetting the wind influence & can keep you moving down stream.
11. If you fall into the water, don’t panic, roll onto your back & face down stream so your legs will protect you from objects. Pull backwards with both hands & eventually you will get to shore.